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Half an hour farther east, visit John Muir's boyhood home, now John Muir Park.

The cheese capital of Wisconsin doesn't have the flower boxes and chalets of New Glarus, but it's every bit as Swiss and maybe more so Ч it's the home of the nation's last Limburger factory, and at the arts center, you can learn Kerbschnitzen Ч chip carving in wood Ч and Scherenschnitten Ч decorative paper cutting.

Tour a cheese factory, visit the Historic Cheesemaking Center and have a Limburger sandwich at Baumgartner's, on Courthouse Square downtown.

Monroe also makes a good base for riding the new Badger State Trail. From Monroe, it's seven miles to the Illinois border, where the Jane Addams Trail goes 13 miles into Freeport.

It's 26 miles to the northern trailhead in Fitchburg, and the Badger connects to the Sugar River State Trail in Monticello.

This town on the Wisconsin River has two rather astonishing edifices: Taliesen, the Frank Lloyd Wright complex that's a tribute to good taste; and House on the Rock, the overcrowded attic that's a tribute to . a different kind of taste.

Guess which draws more people? Tour both, then spend an evening watching a Shakespeare play at the American Players Theater, which falls into the good taste category.

Downtown, visit art galleries and the Spring Green General Store, a hippie emporium artiquel realationships dating philippines that's moved gracefully into the 21st century. Over Memorial Day, it puts on a music fest that honors Bob Dylan; over Labor Day, it honors the Beatles.

Today, most people think the Dells are a garish strip lined by billboards and blinking neon. But the same attractions that drew tourists in the 19th century still are worth visiting today.

The first tourists came to see the sandstone formations Ч Black HawkТs Head, Romance Cliff, DevilТs Elbow Ч and such spooky recesses as Witches Gulch. See them on Dells Boat Tours to the Upper and Lower Dells, or take a Wisconsin Ducks tour on both land and river.

Downtown, visit the H.H. Bennett Museum and Historic Studio, operated by the pioneering photographer who put the Dells on the map.

North of downtown, take a picnic to the Dells of the Wisconsin River state natural area and hike down to a sand beach on the river.

Just west of Madison, the streets of Mount Horeb are lined with life-size trolls carved from the trunks of trees, on the Trollway.

Nearby, Cave of the Mounds is a good place to go on a rainy day and also on an unbearably hot day: It's always a cool 50 degrees. See Onyx Ridge, a 17-foot-tall stalagmite on which ancient rivulets created the veiled-lady effect used by marble sculptors.

Walk through winding passageways, past diamond stalactites and columns that look like the shinbones of a tyrannosaurus.

Go to Mount Horeb for its Summer Frolic in June, Art Fair in July, Thirsty Troll Brewfest in September or Fall Heritage Festival in October. There are antiques stores, gift shops, cafes and restaurants downtown.

Buy cut-rate Land's End catalog returns at the Bargain Nook (also in New Glarus, Spring Green and Mineral Point).

You can ride to Mount Horeb on the the 40-mile asian and american dating edicate Military Ridge State Trail. Take the Capital City Trail to its trailhead in Fitchburg; from there, it's 15.6 miles to Mount Horeb.

From there, it's another 5.3 miles to Blue Mound State Park, on the tallest hill in southern Wisconsin. From the picnic area, climb two observation towers for a panoramic view of the countryside. If it's a warm day, cool off in the park's swimming pool.

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